Learn how to paint a car as Tony Bandalos walks you through a birdâs eye view of the complete car painting process. Get a FREE auto body book here: https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/
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Read the blog: Explaining Fast, Medium and Slow Reducers: Auto Body Q&A đ: https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/explaining-fast-medium-and-slow-reducers-auto-body-qa/
0:00 Welcome to todayâs auto body Q&A session
3:15 Question: When painting in cold weather, thereâs a type of heater to warm a garage, which uses butane kerosene. Do they react to primers or paint?
5:18 Question: What type of air hose do you recommend? I found a Harbor Freight called Diablo for 15?
7:29 Question: Any issues shooting body paint on brake callipers or are they going to run too hot and burn it?
9:30 Question: Can I use jp202 over the cheap lacquer from auto parts stores? I have to redo my paint.
11:06 Question: When I spray my primer on the repaired area I noticed the next day that it shows like a map all around it. Am I applying my first coat coat too heavy that am not letting it dry properly?
11:51 Question: What should be the size of the DA sander and the buffer for a motorcycle project and what brand or company do you recommend?
12:46 Question: Whatâs your recommended psi for clear coat and base coat? Also, any tips on mixing Rustoleum base paint. do I have to use paint thinner or acetone?
16:00 Question: Can you explain fast, medium and slow reducers?
19:00 Question: When shooting 2K primer with a 1.7mm HVLP spray gun on a 20gallon compressor, what complication will I run in to?
22:20 Question: I live in Vegas and during summer my garage gets up to 100 degrees. Does anyone make extra slow reducer for clear coat?
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31:03 Question: Any tips for moving up from bumper jobs?
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Hey, itâs Tony. Thank you for watching the video and checking out the blog. Todayâs blog is all about Step by Step Auto Body And Car Painting Footage for Newbies.
Weâre doing a â98 Dodge Ram project. Iâm helping my godfather out which he got as a quick flip. Weâre not going to do some crazy show job on it but he wanted to take out some of the large dents on this truck, paint the front and the bed. Iâll show you exactly how to do this.
Watch the series, study and learn from it. Iâm pretty sure youâll like the video. The full version is within the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course so go check it out. Get your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual and learn more about DIY auto body work and how the course teaches you all these.
Enjoy the video!
Sand with 80-grit around all your body work areas before laying any kind of putty, so you can feather in your body work and bondo. Do you see how we have it scuffed all around the areas? Thatâs very important, this way we can blend it in.
My godfather is sanding the whole hood down with a 320-grit. Then, Iâm using a straight sander on the quarter panel for a nice, flat edge. Watch how I do it on the fender crease.
Iâm going to use the Warwick 980HE Spray Gun. Itâs a real amazing high quality spray gun. You can check it out on the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Shop Page.
Iâll show you my fatherâs trick with the mask. He puts a little toilet paper so it serves as a pre-filter. It takes out a lot of the initial heavy overspray.
One thing where a lot of newbies make a mistake is they donât put enough clear on it. Thatâs why it comes out dry and orange peely. Orange peel is not enough clear, drying too quickly, improper mixture, spraying incorrectly, spraying at a too low psi.
I hope you enjoyed the series. Check out LearnAutoBodyAndPaint for more videos and donât forget to grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual, indicate your best email and weâll send the download link.
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Talk to you soon! Bye!
Tony
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Hey, itâs Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint with another video for the Q&A Series.
âTony, Iâm finally about to spray my bike. My bike has decals on it or it may be paint. My question is, do I need to sand all of this designs out or do I need to sand down the clear and prime over it? If it helps, I will be adding new decals once itâs painted. One more thing, would I be pushing my luck spraying flakes out of a 1.8 tip. I know in most of the vids where youâve sprayed flakes youâve used a 2.0 tip.â
Most of the videos wherein I sprayed flake comes out of a 1.3 or 1.4 tip because I use micro sequence flake, which is very fine flake.
If youâre using a larger flake, like the jumbo flake, then you need to use a 1.8mm or 2.0 tip size.
However, micro flakes are about 0.008 in size, so you can shoot it out of a 1.3 or 1.4 nozzle.
Thatâs the flake size I usually use because itâs easy to spray, and will not pop out on your clear coat. It will give you that nice metallic flake look. For awesome flakes check out the X Finishes Cosmic Color Pearls And Flakes on Zoolaa.
Thereâs more work involved with spraying jumbo flake. I like the mini flake better , how it lays on. Itâs tighter in the paint. Looks a lot better.
You need to sand it smooth. You can base coat and clear coat over it and put more decals.
If this is your personal bike and want to do a great job, you can sand the decal out and feather it.
Itâs going take a few pads of sandpaper since sanding out a decal will gum up your sanding disks. You will use about 3 or 4 disks per side.
I will use 100-grit, scuff out the outer area and feather it with 280-grit or 320-grit. Then, put some two to three heavy coats of primer over everything.
You can then wet sand with 400-grit. If you want the shorter method, you can get it smooth without taking the decal out and just base and clear all over. Clear coat is a good foundation to put new paint over.
Itâs Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. Thanks for joining me today. Keep on sending those questions and I do hope you are all enjoying these Q&A videos.
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Talk soon! Cheers!
Tony
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In this video we go over how to properly mix paint and how to understand mix ratios.
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Painting a car is a major job, so having the proper auto paint supplies and painting equipment on hand is essential if you want to produce truly professional results. Your most important projects start with any of Eastwoodâs best paint guns, which include famous brands like DeVilbiss, Binks, and our own Concours and Evolution. Then select from our car paint supplies that include paint mixers, brushes, painterâs files, aerosol spray gun, color matchers and more.
For car body painting, youâll want to choose from our wide selection of masking supplies as well as personal protective and safety supplies
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That is an excellent grit to paint your base coat and clear coat over, including enamels or anything else that youâre doing.
You can actually go even more coarser if youâre doing a single stage enamel. Some people even paint over 280 grit-sanded surfaces.
Personally, I like to stay in the range of 320-360 which is a good grit to paint over. In this range, itâs completely safe to go painting single stage enamel. The reason is because enamels, acrylic enamels, synthetic enamels in general are thicker and they fill the tooth of the sandpaper a lot easier.
While on the other hand, with base coat and clear coat, you will have to sand a little bit more.
I hear of some people sanding down to 600, 800, or 1000, some even sand paint over 1500. The problem with that is, the paint has no tooth to stick on.
You know those fine line scratches you see when you look at a sanded surface? Thatâs what the paint adheres to.
Thatâs why when you do anything, you have to sand it before you glue it together. Youâre not just gluing or sticking shiny pieces togetherâŠbecause then there wonât be anything for adhesion, thereâs no tooth for the material to grab so you can just snap it right off.
I was at a seminar not too long ago with House of Kolor. The founder, Jon Kosmoski was saying the exact same thing.
So I asked him, âWhat grit do you paint over?â
He said, â400-gritâ.
I said, âI told themâ.
See? Thatâs what I always say and even the PRO himself says the same.
I know some people are going to bag on me and say, âHey, 400-grit is too rough.â
But listenâŠDonât listen to all the other people out there who are saying all kinds of stuff. Listen to the ones who are doing it. Listen to the PROâs!
I have been using 400-grit to paint over with my base coat and clear coat for many, many years. In fact, for over 15 years now and Iâve never had a problem.
For some people who think that 400-grit is too coarse, I tell them to go ahead and use 600-grit. Honestly, in my opinion, I like 400-grit but 400-600 is a great range to put your base coat and clear coat over. Anything smoother and finer than that like 800, 1000, 1200,1500-gritâŠis NOT good because your paint is just not going to stick.
At that seminar, Jon was telling me a story that he heard from someoneâŠthis guy painted his base coat/clear coat over 1500-grit. When the paint job was about a year old, he was driving at the freeway and when he got home, the paint was coming off of his car in sheets. There was nothing for the paint to adhere to.
I know thereâs a lot of stuff out there. You see all these other guys with videos, maybe saying otherwise. But Iâm telling you, you would do well to paint over 400-600 grit if youâre painting base coat/clear coat, wet or dry. It really doesnât matter.
I like to wet sand for final painting so if youâre sanding a 2K primer, an epoxy or even a clear-coated surface or maybe if you have a car with an already nice paint job on it (say, you have a red car with a nice paint job but youâd like to put a different red hue on it or some kind of metallic, maybe)âŠAll you have to do really is, scuff down the clear coat with 400-grit then you can lay your base coat and clear coat right on top of that.
You donât even have to put any primer on it. You can just put the new paint right on top of the clear coat.
I want to get everything over your head right now but thatâs just the gist of it. I wanted to make you understand it well.
I hope you enjoyed the videoâŠ
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-Tony
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The whole goal of prepping before paint is to take out the imperfections like this orange peel. You want it to get matte looking like how I show you in the video. Remember this is not the final grit. Weâll finish it off with 400-grit before we paint.
Itâs always good to have clean parts. I sprayed degreaser, hit it with a brush and wash it off. Check out the video as I show you how I use the wax and grease remover on this part.
For every golf ball size of body filler, put 8 drops of hardener. In this example, I put a little more hardener because I want it to harden quickly so we can get things done fast.
As you can see in the video, weâre spraying a good 2-3 heavy coats of Evercoat filler primer on all of our panels. Weâll also do some dry sanding with the use of our DA Sander. Finally, weâll cut this down with 400-grit wet sand.
Youâll always want to finish by hand because you can feel all the little imperfections and youâll see exactly how it comes out once itâs painted.
Hereâs the Omni Plus. This is a good base coat and itâs about $100 for a quart of paint. Remember, this base coat is a 1:1 mixture with your reducer.
You donât have to worry about overspray when youâre doing base coat clear coat. Itâs not that bad compared to a single-stage enamel paint job. Single-stage enamel paints are very thick.
You can tack between base coat when itâs dry. But, never tack between clear coat.
When spraying your bumper covers, you need to make sure that youâre getting all the areas. You may have to adjust your nozzle from a wide fan to a narrow fan to get into some of these areas.
A lot of times, youâll see specks of dots in your clear coat. Thatâs fine because itâs just atomizing on the panel. You might see little bubbles but it disappears after it flows out onto your panel.
You donât have to be scared of runs when youâre doing clear coat because you can fix it by color sanding and buffing. The only time you have to worry about it is if youâre spraying pearls or flakes in your clear coat. Thatâs why I really recommend the newbies to just work with clear coats.
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