car painting

For Newbies- Auto Body And Car Painting Footage- Step by Step DIY SPECIAL

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Hey, it’s Tony. Thank you for watching the video and checking out the blog. Today’s blog is all about Step by Step Auto Body And Car Painting Footage for Newbies.

We’re doing a ’98 Dodge Ram project. I’m helping my godfather out which he got as a quick flip. We’re not going to do some crazy show job on it but he wanted to take out some of the large dents on this truck, paint the front and the bed. I’ll show you exactly how to do this.

Watch the series, study and learn from it. I’m pretty sure you’ll like the video. The full version is within the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course so go check it out. Get your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual and learn more about DIY auto body work and how the course teaches you all these.

Enjoy the video!

Sand with 80-grit around all your body work areas before laying any kind of putty, so you can feather in your body work and bondo. Do you see how we have it scuffed all around the areas? That’s very important, this way we can blend it in.

My godfather is sanding the whole hood down with a 320-grit. Then, I’m using a straight sander on the quarter panel for a nice, flat edge. Watch how I do it on the fender crease.

I’m going to use the Warwick 980HE Spray Gun. It’s a real amazing high quality spray gun. You can check it out on the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Shop Page.

I’ll show you my father’s trick with the mask. He puts a little toilet paper so it serves as a pre-filter. It takes out a lot of the initial heavy overspray.

One thing where a lot of newbies make a mistake is they don’t put enough clear on it. That’s why it comes out dry and orange peely. Orange peel is not enough clear, drying too quickly, improper mixture, spraying incorrectly, spraying at a too low psi.

I hope you enjoyed the series. Check out LearnAutoBodyAndPaint for more videos and don’t forget to grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual, indicate your best email and we’ll send the download link.

Check out the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course and get access to complete step-by-step projects and exclusive access the Facebook VIP group. Please don’t forget to Like, Share and Subscribe to my videos.

Talk to you soon! Bye!

Tony

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How To Paint a Car – Learn Auto Body And Paint from Home 🛵

#autobodywork #howtopaintacar #autopainting Get a FREE A-Z 85 PG. Auto Body Guide Here: http://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/free-autobody-manual/
Learn how to paint a car as Tony Bandalos walks you through a bird’s eye view of the complete car painting process. Get a FREE auto body book here: https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/
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Read the blog: How To Paint a Car – Learn Auto Body And Paint from Home 🛵: https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/how-to-paint-a-car-learn-auto-body-and-paint-from-home/

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Hey, it’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint with another video for the Q&A Series.

“Tony, I’m finally about to spray my bike. My bike has decals on it or it may be paint. My question is, do I need to sand all of this designs out or do I need to sand down the clear and prime over it? If it helps, I will be adding new decals once it’s painted. One more thing, would I be pushing my luck spraying flakes out of a 1.8 tip. I know in most of the vids where you’ve sprayed flakes you’ve used a 2.0 tip.”

Most of the videos wherein I sprayed flake comes out of a 1.3 or 1.4 tip because I use micro sequence flake, which is very fine flake.

If you’re using a larger flake, like the jumbo flake, then you need to use a 1.8mm or 2.0 tip size.

However, micro flakes are about 0.008 in size, so you can shoot it out of a 1.3 or 1.4 nozzle.

That’s the flake size I usually use because it’s easy to spray, and will not pop out on your clear coat. It will give you that nice metallic flake look. For awesome flakes check out the X Finishes Cosmic Color Pearls And Flakes on Zoolaa.

There’s more work involved with spraying jumbo flake. I like the mini flake better , how it lays on. It’s tighter in the paint. Looks a lot better.

You need to sand it smooth. You can base coat and clear coat over it and put more decals.

If this is your personal bike and want to do a great job, you can sand the decal out and feather it.

It’s going take a few pads of sandpaper since sanding out a decal will gum up your sanding disks. You will use about 3 or 4 disks per side.

I will use 100-grit, scuff out the outer area and feather it with 280-grit or 320-grit. Then, put some two to three heavy coats of primer over everything.

You can then wet sand with 400-grit. If you want the shorter method, you can get it smooth without taking the decal out and just base and clear all over. Clear coat is a good foundation to put new paint over.

It’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. Thanks for joining me today. Keep on sending those questions and I do hope you are all enjoying these Q&A videos.

Don’t forget to grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual to learn more and get tons of free information to help you get started in this craft.

If you are serious and want to start your own custom projects, check out the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program and be part of the #BossPainter community!

C’mon and SMASH that Like button, Share and Subscribe to my channels! 🙂

Talk soon! Cheers!

Tony

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Paint Mixing Tips. Understanding Mix Ratios. How to Mix Paint at Eastwood

In this video we go over how to properly mix paint and how to understand mix ratios.

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Painting a car is a major job, so having the proper auto paint supplies and painting equipment on hand is essential if you want to produce truly professional results. Your most important projects start with any of Eastwood’s best paint guns, which include famous brands like DeVilbiss, Binks, and our own Concours and Evolution. Then select from our car paint supplies that include paint mixers, brushes, painter’s files, aerosol spray gun, color matchers and more.

For car body painting, you’ll want to choose from our wide selection of masking supplies as well as personal protective and safety supplies

For more information on Eastwood products visit www.eastwood.com or stay connected with the team via:
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Blog – http://www.eastwood.com/blog

Eastwood has everything you need to do the job right when you’re restoring a car, truck or motorcycle – from welders to paint and everything in between.

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Learn Auto Body And Paint from Home. DIY auto body and paint training. Learn complete paint jobs, rust repair, custom work and more!

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Best Sandpaper Grit for Car Painting – 400, 600, 800 Grit?

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That is an excellent grit to paint your base coat and clear coat over, including enamels or anything else that you’re doing.

You can actually go even more coarser if you’re doing a single stage enamel. Some people even paint over 280 grit-sanded surfaces.

Personally, I like to stay in the range of 320-360 which is a good grit to paint over. In this range, it’s completely safe to go painting single stage enamel. The reason is because enamels, acrylic enamels, synthetic enamels in general are thicker and they fill the tooth of the sandpaper a lot easier.

While on the other hand, with base coat and clear coat, you will have to sand a little bit more.

I hear of some people sanding down to 600, 800, or 1000, some even sand paint over 1500. The problem with that is, the paint has no tooth to stick on.

You know those fine line scratches you see when you look at a sanded surface? That’s what the paint adheres to.

That’s why when you do anything, you have to sand it before you glue it together. You’re not just gluing or sticking shiny pieces together…because then there won’t be anything for adhesion, there’s no tooth for the material to grab so you can just snap it right off.

I was at a seminar not too long ago with House of Kolor. The founder, Jon Kosmoski was saying the exact same thing.

So I asked him, “What grit do you paint over?”

He said, “400-grit”.

I said, “I told them”.

See? That’s what I always say and even the PRO himself says the same.

I know some people are going to bag on me and say, “Hey, 400-grit is too rough.”

But listen…Don’t listen to all the other people out there who are saying all kinds of stuff. Listen to the ones who are doing it. Listen to the PRO’s!

I have been using 400-grit to paint over with my base coat and clear coat for many, many years. In fact, for over 15 years now and I’ve never had a problem.

For some people who think that 400-grit is too coarse, I tell them to go ahead and use 600-grit. Honestly, in my opinion, I like 400-grit but 400-600 is a great range to put your base coat and clear coat over. Anything smoother and finer than that like 800, 1000, 1200,1500-grit…is NOT good because your paint is just not going to stick.

At that seminar, Jon was telling me a story that he heard from someone…this guy painted his base coat/clear coat over 1500-grit. When the paint job was about a year old, he was driving at the freeway and when he got home, the paint was coming off of his car in sheets. There was nothing for the paint to adhere to.

I know there’s a lot of stuff out there. You see all these other guys with videos, maybe saying otherwise. But I’m telling you, you would do well to paint over 400-600 grit if you’re painting base coat/clear coat, wet or dry. It really doesn’t matter.

I like to wet sand for final painting so if you’re sanding a 2K primer, an epoxy or even a clear-coated surface or maybe if you have a car with an already nice paint job on it (say, you have a red car with a nice paint job but you’d like to put a different red hue on it or some kind of metallic, maybe)…All you have to do really is, scuff down the clear coat with 400-grit then you can lay your base coat and clear coat right on top of that.

You don’t even have to put any primer on it. You can just put the new paint right on top of the clear coat.

I want to get everything over your head right now but that’s just the gist of it. I wanted to make you understand it well.

I hope you enjoyed the video…

Make sure you get a copy of our FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual and the FREE DVD.

Please LIKE the video, share it, subscribe to our YouTube channel and of course, let me hear your thoughts in the comments below. I always love hearing from you, guys. 😀

-Tony

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How To Paint Any Car Like a PRO, Even if You’re a NOOB!

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The whole goal of prepping before paint is to take out the imperfections like this orange peel. You want it to get matte looking like how I show you in the video. Remember this is not the final grit. We’ll finish it off with 400-grit before we paint.

It’s always good to have clean parts. I sprayed degreaser, hit it with a brush and wash it off. Check out the video as I show you how I use the wax and grease remover on this part.

For every golf ball size of body filler, put 8 drops of hardener. In this example, I put a little more hardener because I want it to harden quickly so we can get things done fast.

As you can see in the video, we’re spraying a good 2-3 heavy coats of Evercoat filler primer on all of our panels. We’ll also do some dry sanding with the use of our DA Sander. Finally, we’ll cut this down with 400-grit wet sand.

You’ll always want to finish by hand because you can feel all the little imperfections and you’ll see exactly how it comes out once it’s painted.

Here’s the Omni Plus. This is a good base coat and it’s about $100 for a quart of paint. Remember, this base coat is a 1:1 mixture with your reducer.

You don’t have to worry about overspray when you’re doing base coat clear coat. It’s not that bad compared to a single-stage enamel paint job. Single-stage enamel paints are very thick.

You can tack between base coat when it’s dry. But, never tack between clear coat.

When spraying your bumper covers, you need to make sure that you’re getting all the areas. You may have to adjust your nozzle from a wide fan to a narrow fan to get into some of these areas.

A lot of times, you’ll see specks of dots in your clear coat. That’s fine because it’s just atomizing on the panel. You might see little bubbles but it disappears after it flows out onto your panel.

You don’t have to be scared of runs when you’re doing clear coat because you can fix it by color sanding and buffing. The only time you have to worry about it is if you’re spraying pearls or flakes in your clear coat. That’s why I really recommend the newbies to just work with clear coats.

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How Long Should a Auto Body Paint Job Take You?

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Visit https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/ for the BEST Training on How To Paint A Car!
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Read the Blog: How Long Should a Auto Body Paint Job Take You?: https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/how-long-should-a-auto-body-paint-job-take-you/

I want to talk about setting deadlines and getting your body work done. A lot of people are emailing me to ask how I timeout my projects and how long it takes to do a complete paint job.

Let’s go through a couple of things. You want to look at repair job in stages. A complete paint job with average body work will take 40-80 hours, depending on your body work.

The first stage is assessing the damage and getting all the body work done. You can go around the car and check what kind of body work should be done on it.

Does it have chips that need to be sanded out? Does it need bumper cover repairs? We also check out what color it is. You can see in the video the color code under the hood.

I’m not a full time body guy. I only do custom projects, those high end ones or I do projects that I buy and sell for profit and cars that I customize for my own use. That said, I have time to play around with my projects.

If you’re like me that don’t do body work eight hours a day, you could set a goal of getting all the body work done. That can be a 3-5 day project, six hours a day. You can start with getting the dents done just like what I show you in the video.

I show you how to assess the damage in the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program, so go check it out. This literally takes 10-20 minutes immediately when you get the project.
You mark out all the damages and strategize the entire process.

Figure out the materials you need and how you’re going to start the project. This stage can be anywhere from 3-5 days. This is the first mountain that you need to climb.

Once the body work is done, the next process is getting the body work parts ready for primer. You get everything masked up and prime the spots that need to be primed. This can be done in one day.

The next is sanding the entire car. Block all the primer spots out. You can use a 2K filler primer or a heavy 2K primer sealer or whatever you prefer.

A quicker way to get things done is to have your body work ready for primer at 150-grit to 220-grit. Once your bondo is at that grit level, you can use a 2K filler primer and then, block it with 400-grit.

Once you’re done, it will start to look like matte just as what I show you in the video. Then, the next step is to prep the whole car and get it ready for paint.

Since we didn’t paint the whole car here, we just did pieces of it. We did the trunk and the front bumper cover. We color matched it. It came out awesome.

Masking could be a day or half a day, maybe a couple of hours. As for this project, I masked it and shot it the same day. I let it dry after I washed it and masked it and shot it the next day.

Your last hurdle is laying the paint on. And then comes refinishing, which is color sanding and buffing the car, putting the car together, cleaning it up and making it look nice.

I show you the complete project in the video. It looks brand new again and came out really good. You can do professional show finishes in your own garage just like this.

You don’t need a $10,000 spray booth to get professional results. A lot of people in YouTube show you how to spray in paint booths.
You don’t need that. As long as you have a box fan blowing out and you’re spraying base coat clear coat and using good spray guns, you’re not going to get overspray all over the place.

After all this is complete, then you do the color sanding and buffing if you want to.

The main point of this video is to set deadlines and overcome mountains in chunks. The body work stage, the prep the floor paint stage, the painting stage and then, the refinishing stage.

Of course, that depends on you. You can do it on a fast-paced basis. You can also do it like the 24-hour El Cheapo Paint Job that I have in the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Course. It’s an enamel single-stage paint job project that I have completed within 24 hours, all body work and paint.

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How to sand a car before painting – live auto body class!

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