Car Painting HACKS: No Primer Needed Over Clearcoat – Basecoat With Atom X16

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Hey, it’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. Today’s topic is Car Painting HACKS: No Primer Needed Over Clearcoat – Basecoat With Atom X16.

We’re painting these two fenders and we’re going to show you that you don’t have to prime these parts to paint over it with another color.

We’re going to show you one fender which we sprayed base coat over and another fender which we primed it then sprayed gold base coat over.

We’re also going to be doing it a few different things on this door which I already did. Continue watching this 2-part series video. Don’t forget to Like, Share and Subscribe to my videos! Also comment below and grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual.

If you want to get a comprehensive guide on DIY auto body work and paint, check out the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course.

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Before body and paint, always make sure that your parts are clean. We are going to wet sand with 400-grit. You’ll be fine as long as it’s a wet silicone carbide sand paper.

I like to buy 8×11 sand paper sheets which I cut down to quarter sections. I fold them into a palm size so it’s perfect for wet sanding.

When you sand, don’t use your three fingers like how I show you in the video. Use your entire hand when sanding. Check out the demo!

The key is to get it flat looking. Another quick way to find out if you’re sanding over base coat clear coat is that if you see white while sanding. On the other hand, if you’re sanding over single stage, the color will be coming right off because there’s no clear coat on it. If this car is just single stage, you’ll see red coming right off at this point.

However, if we sand too much and cut through the clear coat, you’re going to see the red coming out of your hand because you’re getting into the base coat.

There’s a couple of dents but we’re not going to worry about that for now because this is not a dent repair video but mostly finishing. We can fix the dents later on and then repaint the car.

This is pretty much done with the 400-grit. That’s how quickly you can have it completed. This is ready to spray base coat over.

A lot of people ask what color they can paint over. It depends on your final color. You can pretty much put any color over a base coat, especially if you’re going darker. You won’t hurt it. If you’re shooting white over this, you need to make sure to spray a few coats to cover it. Put enough white to cover it.

In this project, we used the Atom Mini X16 Spray Gun with a 1.0mm tip size. The 1.2mm tip size is recommended for larger pieces for better material coverage. If you want to check out these awesome spray guns, head on over to Zoolaa now.

Continue watching the video to learn more to help you with your own custom projects.

It’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. Thanks everyone for watching and I hope you enjoyed this video.

Talk soon! Cheers!

Tony

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How To Paint Any Car Like a PRO, Even if You’re a NOOB!

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The whole goal of prepping before paint is to take out the imperfections like this orange peel. You want it to get matte looking like how I show you in the video. Remember this is not the final grit. We’ll finish it off with 400-grit before we paint.

It’s always good to have clean parts. I sprayed degreaser, hit it with a brush and wash it off. Check out the video as I show you how I use the wax and grease remover on this part.

For every golf ball size of body filler, put 8 drops of hardener. In this example, I put a little more hardener because I want it to harden quickly so we can get things done fast.

As you can see in the video, we’re spraying a good 2-3 heavy coats of Evercoat filler primer on all of our panels. We’ll also do some dry sanding with the use of our DA Sander. Finally, we’ll cut this down with 400-grit wet sand.

You’ll always want to finish by hand because you can feel all the little imperfections and you’ll see exactly how it comes out once it’s painted.

Here’s the Omni Plus. This is a good base coat and it’s about $100 for a quart of paint. Remember, this base coat is a 1:1 mixture with your reducer.

You don’t have to worry about overspray when you’re doing base coat clear coat. It’s not that bad compared to a single-stage enamel paint job. Single-stage enamel paints are very thick.

You can tack between base coat when it’s dry. But, never tack between clear coat.

When spraying your bumper covers, you need to make sure that you’re getting all the areas. You may have to adjust your nozzle from a wide fan to a narrow fan to get into some of these areas.

A lot of times, you’ll see specks of dots in your clear coat. That’s fine because it’s just atomizing on the panel. You might see little bubbles but it disappears after it flows out onto your panel.

You don’t have to be scared of runs when you’re doing clear coat because you can fix it by color sanding and buffing. The only time you have to worry about it is if you’re spraying pearls or flakes in your clear coat. That’s why I really recommend the newbies to just work with clear coats.

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How To Body Work and Paint a Car – Part 1

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Discover EXACTLY how to body work, prep and paint your car the ‘right way’

In this video Tony goes in-depth during the bodywork process on a BMW body kit modification. You’ll learn what sand papers to use, how to sand and more.

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Talk soon!

Tony

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How Long Should a Auto Body Paint Job Take You?

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I want to talk about setting deadlines and getting your body work done. A lot of people are emailing me to ask how I timeout my projects and how long it takes to do a complete paint job.

Let’s go through a couple of things. You want to look at repair job in stages. A complete paint job with average body work will take 40-80 hours, depending on your body work.

The first stage is assessing the damage and getting all the body work done. You can go around the car and check what kind of body work should be done on it.

Does it have chips that need to be sanded out? Does it need bumper cover repairs? We also check out what color it is. You can see in the video the color code under the hood.

I’m not a full time body guy. I only do custom projects, those high end ones or I do projects that I buy and sell for profit and cars that I customize for my own use. That said, I have time to play around with my projects.

If you’re like me that don’t do body work eight hours a day, you could set a goal of getting all the body work done. That can be a 3-5 day project, six hours a day. You can start with getting the dents done just like what I show you in the video.

I show you how to assess the damage in the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program, so go check it out. This literally takes 10-20 minutes immediately when you get the project.
You mark out all the damages and strategize the entire process.

Figure out the materials you need and how you’re going to start the project. This stage can be anywhere from 3-5 days. This is the first mountain that you need to climb.

Once the body work is done, the next process is getting the body work parts ready for primer. You get everything masked up and prime the spots that need to be primed. This can be done in one day.

The next is sanding the entire car. Block all the primer spots out. You can use a 2K filler primer or a heavy 2K primer sealer or whatever you prefer.

A quicker way to get things done is to have your body work ready for primer at 150-grit to 220-grit. Once your bondo is at that grit level, you can use a 2K filler primer and then, block it with 400-grit.

Once you’re done, it will start to look like matte just as what I show you in the video. Then, the next step is to prep the whole car and get it ready for paint.

Since we didn’t paint the whole car here, we just did pieces of it. We did the trunk and the front bumper cover. We color matched it. It came out awesome.

Masking could be a day or half a day, maybe a couple of hours. As for this project, I masked it and shot it the same day. I let it dry after I washed it and masked it and shot it the next day.

Your last hurdle is laying the paint on. And then comes refinishing, which is color sanding and buffing the car, putting the car together, cleaning it up and making it look nice.

I show you the complete project in the video. It looks brand new again and came out really good. You can do professional show finishes in your own garage just like this.

You don’t need a $10,000 spray booth to get professional results. A lot of people in YouTube show you how to spray in paint booths.
You don’t need that. As long as you have a box fan blowing out and you’re spraying base coat clear coat and using good spray guns, you’re not going to get overspray all over the place.

After all this is complete, then you do the color sanding and buffing if you want to.

The main point of this video is to set deadlines and overcome mountains in chunks. The body work stage, the prep the floor paint stage, the painting stage and then, the refinishing stage.

Of course, that depends on you. You can do it on a fast-paced basis. You can also do it like the 24-hour El Cheapo Paint Job that I have in the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Course. It’s an enamel single-stage paint job project that I have completed within 24 hours, all body work and paint.

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How to sand a car before painting – live auto body class!

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DIY Auto Body and Paint Secrets Step-by-Step!

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We’re doing a ’98 Dodge Ram project. I’m helping my godfather out which he got as a quick flip. We’re not going to do some crazy show job on it but he wanted to take out some of the large dents on this truck, paint the front and the bed.

It looks like it got hit in the front so we’ll pull this grill off, take the dent out and bondo it out flat.

The dents and scratches on the side are easy. It will only take me twenty minutes to take it out, put some bondo, grind and weld and put some pins to pop it out. We’ll paint it green from the lower bottom up, base and clear the side of the bed.

Before doing any real body work, grind down all the damage areas, this way you can do all your spot welding, pull out the dents, do your filler and all of that.

Maintain clean the area that has to be body worked with a grinder.
Sand with 80-grit around all your body work areas before laying any kind of putty, so you can feather in your body work and bondo. Do you see how we have it scuffed all around the areas? That’s very important, this way we can blend it in.

Then, we’ll do a little bit of rasping to save some sanding time.

Now, we’re laying our second coat of body filler. Large dents usually take two to four coats, depending on how much body work there is. Small areas usually need one to two coats. Then we’ll rasp it down again.

We’ll use the straight sander, put some guide coat and hand block doing a crisscross pattern. You can use a 40-grit, 60-grit or an 80-grit, which I’m using.

My godfather is sanding the whole hood down with a 320-grit. Then, I’m using a straight sander on the quarter panel for a nice, flat edge.

We’ll spray a little bit more guide coat so we can use our block and finish it off nice and flat. Then, after this it’s done.

We’ll go ahead and put some polyester putty and fill all of this in nicely. We laid about three heavy coats of polyester putty. Then, what you have to do after, is check for imperfections.

If you there are chips that you missed, you can fill it in with regular putty. I used a polyester glazed putty in a tube.

Then, cut everything down with 400-grit wet sand. You can cheat and use a DA sander quick then wash it off with a 400-grit wet sand. Then, you’re ready for paint.

Let’s mix our paint up and tack it down. The tack rag is the final step.

Then, we can start our base coat. We’ll lay two to three coats of base and two heavy coats of clear.

When doing touch up repair jobs like this, you will always want to cover the primer area first.

If you just covered the whole panel, the primer areas will still be a little bit grey. Make sure you get it to the same color first and then paint the whole panel.

We just wanted to make the main front grill fixed up.We’ll fill up the gun one more time then lay our second coat of clear. We have 50 percent overlay. We’re spraying at about 29 to 30 psi.

I purposely left this section of the video long because a lot of people want to see the painting process. How I actually spray. We are spraying at about four to six inches away from the panel and making sure it’s nice, wet and glossy.

One thing where a lot of newbies make a mistake is they don’t put enough clear on it. That’s why it comes out dry and orange peely. Orange peel is not enough clear, drying too quickly, improper mixture, spraying incorrectly, spraying at a too low psi.

Now, we’ll do some plasti-dip on the front grill. We’re peeling off the excess plasti dip off the emblem. It’s pretty much done. We’re buffing out the rest of the panels so it brings out the resilience of the old paint to match the new paint. We didn’t really do a blend job, we just did a touch-up.

Talk to you soon! Bye!

Tony

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Automotive Primer Lesson – How To Spray Primer and Final Grit Sanding

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Hey, it’s Tony. Thanks for watching the video and checking out the blog. Today, we’ll talk about spraying a filler primer over a BMW body kit.

In the video, you can see I’ve prepared mostly everything. All the panels are tacked down and ready to roll.

We have our gun and our filter in it. You always want to filter everything you do. We also have our jar to mix. Remember, your hands are going to be sticky sometimes.

And, we can put back our tack rag and use it when we’re doing our base coat clear coat. We’ll use an area on it that wasn’t used. You can probably do a whole car between your base coat stages before you throw it out.

Watch the video as I show you how to mix it in the jar. I half-filled it with primer (or probably a little less), a quarter of our hardener and we can add some reducer if it looks a little bit too thick.

Make sure to strain everything before you put it in your paint gun. Then, watch the video as I show you how to lay the first coat of paint.

It shouldn’t be too much because you want it to flow on thick and heavy. And, if you spray a thick primer at too much of a high psi, it’s going to come out dry since it will come out so quick.

Please take note of how I spray, how my wrist flows and how I get on to certain areas. I’ll do the front and back kit two to three times.

If you look on to the top left part of the bumper cover where the light goes, you can see a little dry area. That’s the bondo sucking up the primer. You’re going to see these spots all over when you start painting.

It’s good that you notice these spots because you know where the bondo is sucking up the primer so you can cover it.

Here’s a sneak peak of the finished product. This is how it’s going to look once it’s done. When it dries, it should look pretty much like a matte color.

All the imperfections that you see here, like the dust and orange peel, will be sanded out flat. This is our first coat. We’re going to do another coat then we’ll clean our spray gun.

When you clean your gun, just throw some lacquer thinner in it immediately after you paint then mix it up.

You have to repeat the process about two to three times. Then, take cup off, as well as the nozzle tip, and needle then soak it in the little bucket. Soak it for a little while.

Make sure you clean it out really well then put it back together. You don’t have to worry because soaking will not hurt any of the seals.

I have other videos on tips and tricks in cleaning your spray guns within the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course. So, if you want to learn more, check it out now.

Don’t forget to grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual and get a lot of free information about DIY auto body work.

I hope you liked the video. Please Like, Comment, Share and Subscribe to my videos. Stay tuned for the next video as we assess what we’ve primed and we’ll also talk about glaze putty.

Talk soon! Cheers! Bye!

-Tony

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