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How To Paint Any Car Like a PRO, Even if You’re a NOOB!

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The whole goal of prepping before paint is to take out the imperfections like this orange peel. You want it to get matte looking like how I show you in the video. Remember this is not the final grit. We’ll finish it off with 400-grit before we paint.

It’s always good to have clean parts. I sprayed degreaser, hit it with a brush and wash it off. Check out the video as I show you how I use the wax and grease remover on this part.

For every golf ball size of body filler, put 8 drops of hardener. In this example, I put a little more hardener because I want it to harden quickly so we can get things done fast.

As you can see in the video, we’re spraying a good 2-3 heavy coats of Evercoat filler primer on all of our panels. We’ll also do some dry sanding with the use of our DA Sander. Finally, we’ll cut this down with 400-grit wet sand.

You’ll always want to finish by hand because you can feel all the little imperfections and you’ll see exactly how it comes out once it’s painted.

Here’s the Omni Plus. This is a good base coat and it’s about $100 for a quart of paint. Remember, this base coat is a 1:1 mixture with your reducer.

You don’t have to worry about overspray when you’re doing base coat clear coat. It’s not that bad compared to a single-stage enamel paint job. Single-stage enamel paints are very thick.

You can tack between base coat when it’s dry. But, never tack between clear coat.

When spraying your bumper covers, you need to make sure that you’re getting all the areas. You may have to adjust your nozzle from a wide fan to a narrow fan to get into some of these areas.

A lot of times, you’ll see specks of dots in your clear coat. That’s fine because it’s just atomizing on the panel. You might see little bubbles but it disappears after it flows out onto your panel.

You don’t have to be scared of runs when you’re doing clear coat because you can fix it by color sanding and buffing. The only time you have to worry about it is if you’re spraying pearls or flakes in your clear coat. That’s why I really recommend the newbies to just work with clear coats.

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DIY Auto Body and Paint Secrets Step-by-Step!

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We’re doing a ’98 Dodge Ram project. I’m helping my godfather out which he got as a quick flip. We’re not going to do some crazy show job on it but he wanted to take out some of the large dents on this truck, paint the front and the bed.

It looks like it got hit in the front so we’ll pull this grill off, take the dent out and bondo it out flat.

The dents and scratches on the side are easy. It will only take me twenty minutes to take it out, put some bondo, grind and weld and put some pins to pop it out. We’ll paint it green from the lower bottom up, base and clear the side of the bed.

Before doing any real body work, grind down all the damage areas, this way you can do all your spot welding, pull out the dents, do your filler and all of that.

Maintain clean the area that has to be body worked with a grinder.
Sand with 80-grit around all your body work areas before laying any kind of putty, so you can feather in your body work and bondo. Do you see how we have it scuffed all around the areas? That’s very important, this way we can blend it in.

Then, we’ll do a little bit of rasping to save some sanding time.

Now, we’re laying our second coat of body filler. Large dents usually take two to four coats, depending on how much body work there is. Small areas usually need one to two coats. Then we’ll rasp it down again.

We’ll use the straight sander, put some guide coat and hand block doing a crisscross pattern. You can use a 40-grit, 60-grit or an 80-grit, which I’m using.

My godfather is sanding the whole hood down with a 320-grit. Then, I’m using a straight sander on the quarter panel for a nice, flat edge.

We’ll spray a little bit more guide coat so we can use our block and finish it off nice and flat. Then, after this it’s done.

We’ll go ahead and put some polyester putty and fill all of this in nicely. We laid about three heavy coats of polyester putty. Then, what you have to do after, is check for imperfections.

If you there are chips that you missed, you can fill it in with regular putty. I used a polyester glazed putty in a tube.

Then, cut everything down with 400-grit wet sand. You can cheat and use a DA sander quick then wash it off with a 400-grit wet sand. Then, you’re ready for paint.

Let’s mix our paint up and tack it down. The tack rag is the final step.

Then, we can start our base coat. We’ll lay two to three coats of base and two heavy coats of clear.

When doing touch up repair jobs like this, you will always want to cover the primer area first.

If you just covered the whole panel, the primer areas will still be a little bit grey. Make sure you get it to the same color first and then paint the whole panel.

We just wanted to make the main front grill fixed up.We’ll fill up the gun one more time then lay our second coat of clear. We have 50 percent overlay. We’re spraying at about 29 to 30 psi.

I purposely left this section of the video long because a lot of people want to see the painting process. How I actually spray. We are spraying at about four to six inches away from the panel and making sure it’s nice, wet and glossy.

One thing where a lot of newbies make a mistake is they don’t put enough clear on it. That’s why it comes out dry and orange peely. Orange peel is not enough clear, drying too quickly, improper mixture, spraying incorrectly, spraying at a too low psi.

Now, we’ll do some plasti-dip on the front grill. We’re peeling off the excess plasti dip off the emblem. It’s pretty much done. We’re buffing out the rest of the panels so it brings out the resilience of the old paint to match the new paint. We didn’t really do a blend job, we just did a touch-up.

Talk to you soon! Bye!

Tony

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