Auto Body & Paint School – DIY Bodywork Repair / Spraying Epoxy & High Build Primer Training Course

Visit for New & Used Spray Guns & Parts

—————- Contents Of This Video —————-
Click Timestamp To Fast-Forward Or Rewind
0:00 – Intro
0:20 – Video Highlights
0:51 – Video Introduction
1:50 – Unboxing The Eastwood CONTOUR SCT
4:21 – Adding Sticker To My Cabinet
4:43 – Assembling The Eastwood CONTOUR SCT wheel
5:57 – Removing Parts Off Each Panel
6:50 – Wiping Down Panels
7:25 – Using The Eastwood CONTOUR SCT
8:28 – First Impression Of The Eastwood CONTOUR SCT
9:49 – Stripping Down To Bare Metal
10:16 – Fighting Through All The Layers Of Paint
10:40 – Speeding Up The Process With Some Chemical Paint Stripper
10:56 – Class Clown AKA Potty Mouth Enters The Building
11:22 – Applying The Paint Remover
13:42 – Applying Plastic Over Paint Stripper For Better Results
15:18 – Stripping Off Old Paint
16:50 – Going Behind Other Painters
21:11 – Using The DA With 80 grit To Finish Everything Out
21:40 – The Progress Report Card
22:47 – Class Clown AKA Potty Mouth Enters The Building
23:56 – Wiped Down For The Epoxy Primer
24:24 – Spraying The Epoxy Primer On Bare Metal
26:41 – Never Drink And Spray
27:03 – The Teacher Takes The Wheel
29:40 – Finding High Areas In The Metal
30:47 – Knocking Down High Spots
32:46 – Finding Low Areas In The Metal
35:04 – Prepping The Area For Body Filler
36:11 – Mixing The Cheapest Body Filler
38:04 – Applying Body Filler To Low Areas
39:18 – Knocking The Filler Down With A Hutchins Air Sander
40:21 – Using The Hutchins HUSTLER 2000 Straight Line Sander
41:45 – Dealing With Epoxy Primer Caking Up The Sand Paper
42:25 – Using Spray Paint As Guide Coat
43:01 – Class Clown AKA Potty Mouth Skips Another Lesson
43:24 – Hand Block Sanding
44:17 – Prepped For The High Build Primer
45:22 – Spraying The High Build Primer
47:10 – Tip Of The Week
49:45 – The Results Are In
50:44 – Southern Chevy Tv Final Report
52:37 – Outro

In this session we will be using The Eastwood Contour SCT to strip a few body panels down to bare metal and doing some bodywork by getting everything smooth with The Hutchins Hustler 2000. We’ll also be applying some Epoxy Primer and High Build Primer as well.

Go check out Southern Chevy TV Channel @Southern Chevy Tv

Part One – SprayWayCustoms Auto Body & Paint School – DIY Bodywork Automotive Collision Repair Training Course –

#SprayWayCustoms #BodyworkAndPaint #AutoBodyAndPaint #DIYAutoBodyAndPaint #SprayingEpoxyPrimer #SprayingHighBuildPrimer #SouthernChevyTV #AutoBodyAndPaintSchool #HighToSprayPrimer #EastwoodContourSCT #HutchinsHustler2000

Share This:

Learn Auto Body and Paint

Learn Auto Body And Paint from Home. DIY auto body and paint training. Learn complete paint jobs, rust repair, custom work and more!

Start Learning Auto Body and Paint Plus Get Your FREE 150 page eBook That Reveals How To Paint Your Car, Body Work Techniques, Detailing & More:

Like us on Facebook:

Or Follow me on Twitter:

Share This:

How To Paint Any Car Like a PRO, Even if You’re a NOOB!

Get A 85-Page Auto Body & Paint Manual + 7-Day Video Boot-Camp Access Here:

Read the Blog: How To Paint Your Car Like A Pro Even If You’re A Newbie:

The whole goal of prepping before paint is to take out the imperfections like this orange peel. You want it to get matte looking like how I show you in the video. Remember this is not the final grit. We’ll finish it off with 400-grit before we paint.

It’s always good to have clean parts. I sprayed degreaser, hit it with a brush and wash it off. Check out the video as I show you how I use the wax and grease remover on this part.

For every golf ball size of body filler, put 8 drops of hardener. In this example, I put a little more hardener because I want it to harden quickly so we can get things done fast.

As you can see in the video, we’re spraying a good 2-3 heavy coats of Evercoat filler primer on all of our panels. We’ll also do some dry sanding with the use of our DA Sander. Finally, we’ll cut this down with 400-grit wet sand.

You’ll always want to finish by hand because you can feel all the little imperfections and you’ll see exactly how it comes out once it’s painted.

Here’s the Omni Plus. This is a good base coat and it’s about $100 for a quart of paint. Remember, this base coat is a 1:1 mixture with your reducer.

You don’t have to worry about overspray when you’re doing base coat clear coat. It’s not that bad compared to a single-stage enamel paint job. Single-stage enamel paints are very thick.

You can tack between base coat when it’s dry. But, never tack between clear coat.

When spraying your bumper covers, you need to make sure that you’re getting all the areas. You may have to adjust your nozzle from a wide fan to a narrow fan to get into some of these areas.

A lot of times, you’ll see specks of dots in your clear coat. That’s fine because it’s just atomizing on the panel. You might see little bubbles but it disappears after it flows out onto your panel.

You don’t have to be scared of runs when you’re doing clear coat because you can fix it by color sanding and buffing. The only time you have to worry about it is if you’re spraying pearls or flakes in your clear coat. That’s why I really recommend the newbies to just work with clear coats.

Get A 85-Page Auto Body & Paint Manual + 7-Day Video Boot-Camp Access Here:

Connect on Facebook for More FREE Updates:

Connect on Google Plus:

Check Out Our Recommended Gear:

#howtopaintacar #paintcar #autobody

Share This:

DIY Auto Body and Paint Secrets Step-by-Step!

Get A 85-Page Auto Body & Paint Manual + 7-Day Video Boot-Camp Access Here:
Visit for the BEST Training on How To Paint A Car!
Get complete auto body and paint DOMINATION and training here:

Read the Blog: DIY SPECIAL: Step by Step Auto Body And Car Painting Footage for Newbies:

We’re doing a ’98 Dodge Ram project. I’m helping my godfather out which he got as a quick flip. We’re not going to do some crazy show job on it but he wanted to take out some of the large dents on this truck, paint the front and the bed.

It looks like it got hit in the front so we’ll pull this grill off, take the dent out and bondo it out flat.

The dents and scratches on the side are easy. It will only take me twenty minutes to take it out, put some bondo, grind and weld and put some pins to pop it out. We’ll paint it green from the lower bottom up, base and clear the side of the bed.

Before doing any real body work, grind down all the damage areas, this way you can do all your spot welding, pull out the dents, do your filler and all of that.

Maintain clean the area that has to be body worked with a grinder.
Sand with 80-grit around all your body work areas before laying any kind of putty, so you can feather in your body work and bondo. Do you see how we have it scuffed all around the areas? That’s very important, this way we can blend it in.

Then, we’ll do a little bit of rasping to save some sanding time.

Now, we’re laying our second coat of body filler. Large dents usually take two to four coats, depending on how much body work there is. Small areas usually need one to two coats. Then we’ll rasp it down again.

We’ll use the straight sander, put some guide coat and hand block doing a crisscross pattern. You can use a 40-grit, 60-grit or an 80-grit, which I’m using.

My godfather is sanding the whole hood down with a 320-grit. Then, I’m using a straight sander on the quarter panel for a nice, flat edge.

We’ll spray a little bit more guide coat so we can use our block and finish it off nice and flat. Then, after this it’s done.

We’ll go ahead and put some polyester putty and fill all of this in nicely. We laid about three heavy coats of polyester putty. Then, what you have to do after, is check for imperfections.

If you there are chips that you missed, you can fill it in with regular putty. I used a polyester glazed putty in a tube.

Then, cut everything down with 400-grit wet sand. You can cheat and use a DA sander quick then wash it off with a 400-grit wet sand. Then, you’re ready for paint.

Let’s mix our paint up and tack it down. The tack rag is the final step.

Then, we can start our base coat. We’ll lay two to three coats of base and two heavy coats of clear.

When doing touch up repair jobs like this, you will always want to cover the primer area first.

If you just covered the whole panel, the primer areas will still be a little bit grey. Make sure you get it to the same color first and then paint the whole panel.

We just wanted to make the main front grill fixed up.We’ll fill up the gun one more time then lay our second coat of clear. We have 50 percent overlay. We’re spraying at about 29 to 30 psi.

I purposely left this section of the video long because a lot of people want to see the painting process. How I actually spray. We are spraying at about four to six inches away from the panel and making sure it’s nice, wet and glossy.

One thing where a lot of newbies make a mistake is they don’t put enough clear on it. That’s why it comes out dry and orange peely. Orange peel is not enough clear, drying too quickly, improper mixture, spraying incorrectly, spraying at a too low psi.

Now, we’ll do some plasti-dip on the front grill. We’re peeling off the excess plasti dip off the emblem. It’s pretty much done. We’re buffing out the rest of the panels so it brings out the resilience of the old paint to match the new paint. We didn’t really do a blend job, we just did a touch-up.

Talk to you soon! Bye!


Get A 85-Page Auto Body & Paint Manual + 7-Day Video Boot-Camp Access Here:

Connect on Facebook for More FREE Updates:

Connect on Google Plus:

Check Out Our Recommended Gear:

Share This: