How To Paint a Car – Learn Auto Body And Paint from Home 🛵

#autobodywork #howtopaintacar #autopainting Get a FREE A-Z 85 PG. Auto Body Guide Here: http://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/free-autobody-manual/
Learn how to paint a car as Tony Bandalos walks you through a bird’s eye view of the complete car painting process. Get a FREE auto body book here: https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/
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Read the blog: How To Paint a Car – Learn Auto Body And Paint from Home 🛵: https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/how-to-paint-a-car-learn-auto-body-and-paint-from-home/

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Hey, it’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint with another video for the Q&A Series.

“Tony, I’m finally about to spray my bike. My bike has decals on it or it may be paint. My question is, do I need to sand all of this designs out or do I need to sand down the clear and prime over it? If it helps, I will be adding new decals once it’s painted. One more thing, would I be pushing my luck spraying flakes out of a 1.8 tip. I know in most of the vids where you’ve sprayed flakes you’ve used a 2.0 tip.”

Most of the videos wherein I sprayed flake comes out of a 1.3 or 1.4 tip because I use micro sequence flake, which is very fine flake.

If you’re using a larger flake, like the jumbo flake, then you need to use a 1.8mm or 2.0 tip size.

However, micro flakes are about 0.008 in size, so you can shoot it out of a 1.3 or 1.4 nozzle.

That’s the flake size I usually use because it’s easy to spray, and will not pop out on your clear coat. It will give you that nice metallic flake look. For awesome flakes check out the X Finishes Cosmic Color Pearls And Flakes on Zoolaa.

There’s more work involved with spraying jumbo flake. I like the mini flake better , how it lays on. It’s tighter in the paint. Looks a lot better.

You need to sand it smooth. You can base coat and clear coat over it and put more decals.

If this is your personal bike and want to do a great job, you can sand the decal out and feather it.

It’s going take a few pads of sandpaper since sanding out a decal will gum up your sanding disks. You will use about 3 or 4 disks per side.

I will use 100-grit, scuff out the outer area and feather it with 280-grit or 320-grit. Then, put some two to three heavy coats of primer over everything.

You can then wet sand with 400-grit. If you want the shorter method, you can get it smooth without taking the decal out and just base and clear all over. Clear coat is a good foundation to put new paint over.

It’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. Thanks for joining me today. Keep on sending those questions and I do hope you are all enjoying these Q&A videos.

Don’t forget to grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual to learn more and get tons of free information to help you get started in this craft.

If you are serious and want to start your own custom projects, check out the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program and be part of the #BossPainter community!

C’mon and SMASH that Like button, Share and Subscribe to my channels! 🙂

Talk soon! Cheers!

Tony

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Paint a Motorcycle – Auto Body And Paint Tips THEY Don’t Want You To Know About

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Hey! Good Morning!

This is a quick video on a little tank project that I’m working on. Let me tell you a little bit about this thing so you understand what’s going on here.

We have a Yamaha YSR50 gas tank and we’re on the final stage of the project. I decided to do a two-tone graphic on it and here’s what I did that you can do, too…

I did some body work and painted the tank. If you’ve been following, you’d remember there was a big dent on it. First, we did the silver base so our green color came out nice and light. Then I got some fine-line tape, did the graphic, taped it up, and sprayed the green paint. After that, we took the tape off and our silver was revealed. Then I got some black pinstripe and added it along the silver area. Finally, I laid two coats of clear on top of it.

These are just ideas for you. I will break this down even more, detailed step-by-step within the VIP Course so if you’re interested in that, I have recorded everything on video.

I also decided to put a decal on it. So if you have decals, you could lay clear coat right over them. That’s what I did with the pinstripe.

However, I added the www.LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com decal after I sprayed the 2 coats of clear. So what I did was, sanded the whole thing down with 1200-grit. You don’t want to go coarser than that because it will show sandpaper scratches for your clear coat to cover.

This is important!

If you want to RE-clear anything, meaning apply clear coat again…do it over 1200-grit. 1000-grit is too coarse, 1200-grit is safe, 1500-grit is a little too fine.

Now if you’re painting a regular basecoat/clearcoat paint job, you DO NOT want to paint your basecoat over 800, 1000, 1200, 1500-grit…you only want to paint over 400-grit because you need your paint to stick to something.

With basecoat you have no hardener, unless it’s urethane enamel you’re using. So there’s no hardener, it just goes on to your primer or sealer or whatever you have underneath your undercoat. And then you can layer clearcoat on top of that. And that’s fine, you don’t have to sand it. Clearcoat goes right over basecoat the same day that you’re painting the latter.

You’re probably thinking…”Hey, isn’t 1200-grit a little to fine to paint over?”

The answer is, NO, not when it’s clearcoat.

With clearcoat, you have additive, activator, hardener, reducer in it so it will stick to it. It will not peel or chip off as long as you have it sanded flat, you’re good to go. Then you could colorsand and buff it later on, if you want to.

But what I’ll do today is, wax and remove grease from it. You can do that over clearcoat, you’re not going to hurt it. You don’t want to wax and put grease-remover over basecoat because you’re just going to melt it off.

Don’t worry if you’re confused right now. I know I’m packing a lot of information in one video. In the VIP Course, I have step-by-step videos. I just want to put out as much good information I can include here.

So I show you on the video how I wash it down with wax and grease-remover, tack it down so there’s no dust on it, and then lay two more coats of clear on top of it. All that so I can seal the www.LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com decal.

Why do I want to do that?

It’s because on gas tanks, you have the most wear…you’re leaning against it, you got your body on it and if you noticed, a lot of motorcycles come with clearcoat over the decals on the gas tanks. Another reason is, if you spill fuel, you’re not going to have a problem with your decal because it’s sealed underneath the clearcoat. Just simply wipe it off.

And of course, I like it that way. If I had more graphics on my bike, I would have put them on and then lay clearcoat over everything, on the entire bike.

Don’t forget to get your FREE 85-page Auto Body And Paint Manual and your FREE 90-minute Auto Body DVD.

I think you’re really going to like them. Pick those items up right now!

Like always, I’d love to hear from you. Make your comments below, ask your questions, share your thoughts. I’m all ears. 🙂 Like this video and share it with your friends.

Ciao!

-Tony

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Car Painting HACKS: No Primer Needed Over Clearcoat – Basecoat With Atom X16

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Hey, it’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. Today’s topic is Car Painting HACKS: No Primer Needed Over Clearcoat – Basecoat With Atom X16.

We’re painting these two fenders and we’re going to show you that you don’t have to prime these parts to paint over it with another color.

We’re going to show you one fender which we sprayed base coat over and another fender which we primed it then sprayed gold base coat over.

We’re also going to be doing it a few different things on this door which I already did. Continue watching this 2-part series video. Don’t forget to Like, Share and Subscribe to my videos! Also comment below and grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual.

If you want to get a comprehensive guide on DIY auto body work and paint, check out the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course.

Check out the video now!

Before body and paint, always make sure that your parts are clean. We are going to wet sand with 400-grit. You’ll be fine as long as it’s a wet silicone carbide sand paper.

I like to buy 8×11 sand paper sheets which I cut down to quarter sections. I fold them into a palm size so it’s perfect for wet sanding.

When you sand, don’t use your three fingers like how I show you in the video. Use your entire hand when sanding. Check out the demo!

The key is to get it flat looking. Another quick way to find out if you’re sanding over base coat clear coat is that if you see white while sanding. On the other hand, if you’re sanding over single stage, the color will be coming right off because there’s no clear coat on it. If this car is just single stage, you’ll see red coming right off at this point.

However, if we sand too much and cut through the clear coat, you’re going to see the red coming out of your hand because you’re getting into the base coat.

There’s a couple of dents but we’re not going to worry about that for now because this is not a dent repair video but mostly finishing. We can fix the dents later on and then repaint the car.

This is pretty much done with the 400-grit. That’s how quickly you can have it completed. This is ready to spray base coat over.

A lot of people ask what color they can paint over. It depends on your final color. You can pretty much put any color over a base coat, especially if you’re going darker. You won’t hurt it. If you’re shooting white over this, you need to make sure to spray a few coats to cover it. Put enough white to cover it.

In this project, we used the Atom Mini X16 Spray Gun with a 1.0mm tip size. The 1.2mm tip size is recommended for larger pieces for better material coverage. If you want to check out these awesome spray guns, head on over to Zoolaa now.

Continue watching the video to learn more to help you with your own custom projects.

It’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. Thanks everyone for watching and I hope you enjoyed this video.

Talk soon! Cheers!

Tony

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How To Paint Any Car Like a PRO, Even if You’re a NOOB!

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The whole goal of prepping before paint is to take out the imperfections like this orange peel. You want it to get matte looking like how I show you in the video. Remember this is not the final grit. We’ll finish it off with 400-grit before we paint.

It’s always good to have clean parts. I sprayed degreaser, hit it with a brush and wash it off. Check out the video as I show you how I use the wax and grease remover on this part.

For every golf ball size of body filler, put 8 drops of hardener. In this example, I put a little more hardener because I want it to harden quickly so we can get things done fast.

As you can see in the video, we’re spraying a good 2-3 heavy coats of Evercoat filler primer on all of our panels. We’ll also do some dry sanding with the use of our DA Sander. Finally, we’ll cut this down with 400-grit wet sand.

You’ll always want to finish by hand because you can feel all the little imperfections and you’ll see exactly how it comes out once it’s painted.

Here’s the Omni Plus. This is a good base coat and it’s about $100 for a quart of paint. Remember, this base coat is a 1:1 mixture with your reducer.

You don’t have to worry about overspray when you’re doing base coat clear coat. It’s not that bad compared to a single-stage enamel paint job. Single-stage enamel paints are very thick.

You can tack between base coat when it’s dry. But, never tack between clear coat.

When spraying your bumper covers, you need to make sure that you’re getting all the areas. You may have to adjust your nozzle from a wide fan to a narrow fan to get into some of these areas.

A lot of times, you’ll see specks of dots in your clear coat. That’s fine because it’s just atomizing on the panel. You might see little bubbles but it disappears after it flows out onto your panel.

You don’t have to be scared of runs when you’re doing clear coat because you can fix it by color sanding and buffing. The only time you have to worry about it is if you’re spraying pearls or flakes in your clear coat. That’s why I really recommend the newbies to just work with clear coats.

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How Long Should a Auto Body Paint Job Take You?

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I want to talk about setting deadlines and getting your body work done. A lot of people are emailing me to ask how I timeout my projects and how long it takes to do a complete paint job.

Let’s go through a couple of things. You want to look at repair job in stages. A complete paint job with average body work will take 40-80 hours, depending on your body work.

The first stage is assessing the damage and getting all the body work done. You can go around the car and check what kind of body work should be done on it.

Does it have chips that need to be sanded out? Does it need bumper cover repairs? We also check out what color it is. You can see in the video the color code under the hood.

I’m not a full time body guy. I only do custom projects, those high end ones or I do projects that I buy and sell for profit and cars that I customize for my own use. That said, I have time to play around with my projects.

If you’re like me that don’t do body work eight hours a day, you could set a goal of getting all the body work done. That can be a 3-5 day project, six hours a day. You can start with getting the dents done just like what I show you in the video.

I show you how to assess the damage in the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program, so go check it out. This literally takes 10-20 minutes immediately when you get the project.
You mark out all the damages and strategize the entire process.

Figure out the materials you need and how you’re going to start the project. This stage can be anywhere from 3-5 days. This is the first mountain that you need to climb.

Once the body work is done, the next process is getting the body work parts ready for primer. You get everything masked up and prime the spots that need to be primed. This can be done in one day.

The next is sanding the entire car. Block all the primer spots out. You can use a 2K filler primer or a heavy 2K primer sealer or whatever you prefer.

A quicker way to get things done is to have your body work ready for primer at 150-grit to 220-grit. Once your bondo is at that grit level, you can use a 2K filler primer and then, block it with 400-grit.

Once you’re done, it will start to look like matte just as what I show you in the video. Then, the next step is to prep the whole car and get it ready for paint.

Since we didn’t paint the whole car here, we just did pieces of it. We did the trunk and the front bumper cover. We color matched it. It came out awesome.

Masking could be a day or half a day, maybe a couple of hours. As for this project, I masked it and shot it the same day. I let it dry after I washed it and masked it and shot it the next day.

Your last hurdle is laying the paint on. And then comes refinishing, which is color sanding and buffing the car, putting the car together, cleaning it up and making it look nice.

I show you the complete project in the video. It looks brand new again and came out really good. You can do professional show finishes in your own garage just like this.

You don’t need a $10,000 spray booth to get professional results. A lot of people in YouTube show you how to spray in paint booths.
You don’t need that. As long as you have a box fan blowing out and you’re spraying base coat clear coat and using good spray guns, you’re not going to get overspray all over the place.

After all this is complete, then you do the color sanding and buffing if you want to.

The main point of this video is to set deadlines and overcome mountains in chunks. The body work stage, the prep the floor paint stage, the painting stage and then, the refinishing stage.

Of course, that depends on you. You can do it on a fast-paced basis. You can also do it like the 24-hour El Cheapo Paint Job that I have in the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Course. It’s an enamel single-stage paint job project that I have completed within 24 hours, all body work and paint.

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How to sand a car before painting – live auto body class!

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