For Newbies- Auto Body And Car Painting Footage- Step by Step DIY SPECIAL

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Hey, it’s Tony. Thank you for watching the video and checking out the blog. Today’s blog is all about Step by Step Auto Body And Car Painting Footage for Newbies.

We’re doing a ’98 Dodge Ram project. I’m helping my godfather out which he got as a quick flip. We’re not going to do some crazy show job on it but he wanted to take out some of the large dents on this truck, paint the front and the bed. I’ll show you exactly how to do this.

Watch the series, study and learn from it. I’m pretty sure you’ll like the video. The full version is within the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course so go check it out. Get your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual and learn more about DIY auto body work and how the course teaches you all these.

Enjoy the video!

Sand with 80-grit around all your body work areas before laying any kind of putty, so you can feather in your body work and bondo. Do you see how we have it scuffed all around the areas? That’s very important, this way we can blend it in.

My godfather is sanding the whole hood down with a 320-grit. Then, I’m using a straight sander on the quarter panel for a nice, flat edge. Watch how I do it on the fender crease.

I’m going to use the Warwick 980HE Spray Gun. It’s a real amazing high quality spray gun. You can check it out on the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Shop Page.

I’ll show you my father’s trick with the mask. He puts a little toilet paper so it serves as a pre-filter. It takes out a lot of the initial heavy overspray.

One thing where a lot of newbies make a mistake is they don’t put enough clear on it. That’s why it comes out dry and orange peely. Orange peel is not enough clear, drying too quickly, improper mixture, spraying incorrectly, spraying at a too low psi.

I hope you enjoyed the series. Check out LearnAutoBodyAndPaint for more videos and don’t forget to grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual, indicate your best email and we’ll send the download link.

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Talk to you soon! Bye!

Tony

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Paint a Motorcycle – Auto Body And Paint Tips THEY Don’t Want You To Know About

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Hey! Good Morning!

This is a quick video on a little tank project that I’m working on. Let me tell you a little bit about this thing so you understand what’s going on here.

We have a Yamaha YSR50 gas tank and we’re on the final stage of the project. I decided to do a two-tone graphic on it and here’s what I did that you can do, too…

I did some body work and painted the tank. If you’ve been following, you’d remember there was a big dent on it. First, we did the silver base so our green color came out nice and light. Then I got some fine-line tape, did the graphic, taped it up, and sprayed the green paint. After that, we took the tape off and our silver was revealed. Then I got some black pinstripe and added it along the silver area. Finally, I laid two coats of clear on top of it.

These are just ideas for you. I will break this down even more, detailed step-by-step within the VIP Course so if you’re interested in that, I have recorded everything on video.

I also decided to put a decal on it. So if you have decals, you could lay clear coat right over them. That’s what I did with the pinstripe.

However, I added the www.LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com decal after I sprayed the 2 coats of clear. So what I did was, sanded the whole thing down with 1200-grit. You don’t want to go coarser than that because it will show sandpaper scratches for your clear coat to cover.

This is important!

If you want to RE-clear anything, meaning apply clear coat again…do it over 1200-grit. 1000-grit is too coarse, 1200-grit is safe, 1500-grit is a little too fine.

Now if you’re painting a regular basecoat/clearcoat paint job, you DO NOT want to paint your basecoat over 800, 1000, 1200, 1500-grit…you only want to paint over 400-grit because you need your paint to stick to something.

With basecoat you have no hardener, unless it’s urethane enamel you’re using. So there’s no hardener, it just goes on to your primer or sealer or whatever you have underneath your undercoat. And then you can layer clearcoat on top of that. And that’s fine, you don’t have to sand it. Clearcoat goes right over basecoat the same day that you’re painting the latter.

You’re probably thinking…”Hey, isn’t 1200-grit a little to fine to paint over?”

The answer is, NO, not when it’s clearcoat.

With clearcoat, you have additive, activator, hardener, reducer in it so it will stick to it. It will not peel or chip off as long as you have it sanded flat, you’re good to go. Then you could colorsand and buff it later on, if you want to.

But what I’ll do today is, wax and remove grease from it. You can do that over clearcoat, you’re not going to hurt it. You don’t want to wax and put grease-remover over basecoat because you’re just going to melt it off.

Don’t worry if you’re confused right now. I know I’m packing a lot of information in one video. In the VIP Course, I have step-by-step videos. I just want to put out as much good information I can include here.

So I show you on the video how I wash it down with wax and grease-remover, tack it down so there’s no dust on it, and then lay two more coats of clear on top of it. All that so I can seal the www.LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com decal.

Why do I want to do that?

It’s because on gas tanks, you have the most wear…you’re leaning against it, you got your body on it and if you noticed, a lot of motorcycles come with clearcoat over the decals on the gas tanks. Another reason is, if you spill fuel, you’re not going to have a problem with your decal because it’s sealed underneath the clearcoat. Just simply wipe it off.

And of course, I like it that way. If I had more graphics on my bike, I would have put them on and then lay clearcoat over everything, on the entire bike.

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I think you’re really going to like them. Pick those items up right now!

Like always, I’d love to hear from you. Make your comments below, ask your questions, share your thoughts. I’m all ears. 🙂 Like this video and share it with your friends.

Ciao!

-Tony

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Learn Auto Body and Paint

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How To Paint Any Car Like a PRO, Even if You’re a NOOB!

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The whole goal of prepping before paint is to take out the imperfections like this orange peel. You want it to get matte looking like how I show you in the video. Remember this is not the final grit. We’ll finish it off with 400-grit before we paint.

It’s always good to have clean parts. I sprayed degreaser, hit it with a brush and wash it off. Check out the video as I show you how I use the wax and grease remover on this part.

For every golf ball size of body filler, put 8 drops of hardener. In this example, I put a little more hardener because I want it to harden quickly so we can get things done fast.

As you can see in the video, we’re spraying a good 2-3 heavy coats of Evercoat filler primer on all of our panels. We’ll also do some dry sanding with the use of our DA Sander. Finally, we’ll cut this down with 400-grit wet sand.

You’ll always want to finish by hand because you can feel all the little imperfections and you’ll see exactly how it comes out once it’s painted.

Here’s the Omni Plus. This is a good base coat and it’s about $100 for a quart of paint. Remember, this base coat is a 1:1 mixture with your reducer.

You don’t have to worry about overspray when you’re doing base coat clear coat. It’s not that bad compared to a single-stage enamel paint job. Single-stage enamel paints are very thick.

You can tack between base coat when it’s dry. But, never tack between clear coat.

When spraying your bumper covers, you need to make sure that you’re getting all the areas. You may have to adjust your nozzle from a wide fan to a narrow fan to get into some of these areas.

A lot of times, you’ll see specks of dots in your clear coat. That’s fine because it’s just atomizing on the panel. You might see little bubbles but it disappears after it flows out onto your panel.

You don’t have to be scared of runs when you’re doing clear coat because you can fix it by color sanding and buffing. The only time you have to worry about it is if you’re spraying pearls or flakes in your clear coat. That’s why I really recommend the newbies to just work with clear coats.

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How to sand a car before painting – live auto body class!

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DIY Auto Body and Paint Secrets Step-by-Step!

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Read the Blog: DIY SPECIAL: Step by Step Auto Body And Car Painting Footage for Newbies: https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/diy-special-step-by-step-auto-body-and-car-painting-footage-for-newbies/

We’re doing a ’98 Dodge Ram project. I’m helping my godfather out which he got as a quick flip. We’re not going to do some crazy show job on it but he wanted to take out some of the large dents on this truck, paint the front and the bed.

It looks like it got hit in the front so we’ll pull this grill off, take the dent out and bondo it out flat.

The dents and scratches on the side are easy. It will only take me twenty minutes to take it out, put some bondo, grind and weld and put some pins to pop it out. We’ll paint it green from the lower bottom up, base and clear the side of the bed.

Before doing any real body work, grind down all the damage areas, this way you can do all your spot welding, pull out the dents, do your filler and all of that.

Maintain clean the area that has to be body worked with a grinder.
Sand with 80-grit around all your body work areas before laying any kind of putty, so you can feather in your body work and bondo. Do you see how we have it scuffed all around the areas? That’s very important, this way we can blend it in.

Then, we’ll do a little bit of rasping to save some sanding time.

Now, we’re laying our second coat of body filler. Large dents usually take two to four coats, depending on how much body work there is. Small areas usually need one to two coats. Then we’ll rasp it down again.

We’ll use the straight sander, put some guide coat and hand block doing a crisscross pattern. You can use a 40-grit, 60-grit or an 80-grit, which I’m using.

My godfather is sanding the whole hood down with a 320-grit. Then, I’m using a straight sander on the quarter panel for a nice, flat edge.

We’ll spray a little bit more guide coat so we can use our block and finish it off nice and flat. Then, after this it’s done.

We’ll go ahead and put some polyester putty and fill all of this in nicely. We laid about three heavy coats of polyester putty. Then, what you have to do after, is check for imperfections.

If you there are chips that you missed, you can fill it in with regular putty. I used a polyester glazed putty in a tube.

Then, cut everything down with 400-grit wet sand. You can cheat and use a DA sander quick then wash it off with a 400-grit wet sand. Then, you’re ready for paint.

Let’s mix our paint up and tack it down. The tack rag is the final step.

Then, we can start our base coat. We’ll lay two to three coats of base and two heavy coats of clear.

When doing touch up repair jobs like this, you will always want to cover the primer area first.

If you just covered the whole panel, the primer areas will still be a little bit grey. Make sure you get it to the same color first and then paint the whole panel.

We just wanted to make the main front grill fixed up.We’ll fill up the gun one more time then lay our second coat of clear. We have 50 percent overlay. We’re spraying at about 29 to 30 psi.

I purposely left this section of the video long because a lot of people want to see the painting process. How I actually spray. We are spraying at about four to six inches away from the panel and making sure it’s nice, wet and glossy.

One thing where a lot of newbies make a mistake is they don’t put enough clear on it. That’s why it comes out dry and orange peely. Orange peel is not enough clear, drying too quickly, improper mixture, spraying incorrectly, spraying at a too low psi.

Now, we’ll do some plasti-dip on the front grill. We’re peeling off the excess plasti dip off the emblem. It’s pretty much done. We’re buffing out the rest of the panels so it brings out the resilience of the old paint to match the new paint. We didn’t really do a blend job, we just did a touch-up.

Talk to you soon! Bye!

Tony

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Automotive Primer Lesson – How To Spray Primer and Final Grit Sanding

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Hey, it’s Tony. Thanks for watching the video and checking out the blog. Today, we’ll talk about spraying a filler primer over a BMW body kit.

In the video, you can see I’ve prepared mostly everything. All the panels are tacked down and ready to roll.

We have our gun and our filter in it. You always want to filter everything you do. We also have our jar to mix. Remember, your hands are going to be sticky sometimes.

And, we can put back our tack rag and use it when we’re doing our base coat clear coat. We’ll use an area on it that wasn’t used. You can probably do a whole car between your base coat stages before you throw it out.

Watch the video as I show you how to mix it in the jar. I half-filled it with primer (or probably a little less), a quarter of our hardener and we can add some reducer if it looks a little bit too thick.

Make sure to strain everything before you put it in your paint gun. Then, watch the video as I show you how to lay the first coat of paint.

It shouldn’t be too much because you want it to flow on thick and heavy. And, if you spray a thick primer at too much of a high psi, it’s going to come out dry since it will come out so quick.

Please take note of how I spray, how my wrist flows and how I get on to certain areas. I’ll do the front and back kit two to three times.

If you look on to the top left part of the bumper cover where the light goes, you can see a little dry area. That’s the bondo sucking up the primer. You’re going to see these spots all over when you start painting.

It’s good that you notice these spots because you know where the bondo is sucking up the primer so you can cover it.

Here’s a sneak peak of the finished product. This is how it’s going to look once it’s done. When it dries, it should look pretty much like a matte color.

All the imperfections that you see here, like the dust and orange peel, will be sanded out flat. This is our first coat. We’re going to do another coat then we’ll clean our spray gun.

When you clean your gun, just throw some lacquer thinner in it immediately after you paint then mix it up.

You have to repeat the process about two to three times. Then, take cup off, as well as the nozzle tip, and needle then soak it in the little bucket. Soak it for a little while.

Make sure you clean it out really well then put it back together. You don’t have to worry because soaking will not hurt any of the seals.

I have other videos on tips and tricks in cleaning your spray guns within the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course. So, if you want to learn more, check it out now.

Don’t forget to grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual and get a lot of free information about DIY auto body work.

I hope you liked the video. Please Like, Comment, Share and Subscribe to my videos. Stay tuned for the next video as we assess what we’ve primed and we’ll also talk about glaze putty.

Talk soon! Cheers! Bye!

-Tony

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